Rabbits are naturally sociable and need companionship to thrive.
Bonding rabbits and getting them to form an attachment is complicated but worthwhile, and re-homing centres can help with the process.
It’s best to bond neutered male and female rabbits, and there is a range of bonding methods available.
You can try housing rabbits separately side by side within visual contact, putting two rabbits together in a new stress-free neutral territory or introducing rabbits to each other without a long period of visual contact.
If your rabbits are struggling to bond or seem distressed, please contact your vet for further support.
On this page:
- How to bond your rabbits
- Males, females and the role of neutering
- Bonding methods
- Dating
- Speed dating method
- Rabbit bonding behaviour
- Moving in together
How to bond your rabbits
Rabbits are social creatures who live in groups in the wild.
Keeping a rabbit alone negatively impacts their welfare by denying them companionship and the many benefits this offers.
The process of getting two rabbits to form an attachment, so they can live happily together, is known as bonding, mixing or pairing.
This isn’t always a straightforward process, but the benefits far outweigh the (sometimes time-consuming) bonding process!
Do all rabbits get along?
Remember, not all rabbits get along; bonding can be a lengthy process, and patience is needed.
Adult supervision is essential at all times. Fighting must be prevented, as injuries can be very severe and, in certain cases, may prove fatal.
Some pairings will not work due to incompatibilities, and in these cases, a new bonding should not be attempted until a suitable partner is found.
A very small proportion of rabbits will fall in love at first sight, and a very small proportion will never bond.
Others can take from a few days to several months to form an attachment, occasionally longer.
Rabbits that have lived alone for several years can be more challenging to bond.
Bonding rehomed rabbits
Re-homing centres can assist with bonding and suggest appropriate rabbits until a match is found.
They can also offer advice due to their experience of regularly bonding rabbits for re-homing.
Rabbits have instinctive social behaviours, and it can take time for rabbits to settle into their social hierarchy.
Therefore, some grouching, nipping, chasing, fur pulling, and mounting can be seen. This is not usually true aggression, and should be allowed to play out without intervention as part of the bonding process.
If either rabbit exhibits aggressive behaviour that consists of incessant circling, vicious lunging or locking into a ball, the rabbits must be separated immediately.
Avoid the sight and smell of other rabbits during the bonding process, as this can trigger aggression in the bonding pair.
Males, females and the role of neutering
It is best to attempt bonding in neutered rabbits. In males, this should be attempted at least six weeks post-neutering when their hormone levels have decreased, and they are no longer fertile.
Generally, male-female neutered pairs work best, and while same-sex bonding does occur, it may prove more difficult to manage.
Neutering rabbits allows them to live calmer, longer, healthier lives. Rabbit hormones can cause aggression towards humans and other animals.
Neutering stops the production of powerful reproductive hormones, which allows for calmer, less complicated lives and, of course, prevents breeding and offers health benefits.
Bonding methods
The Visual Contact Method can take time, but generally produces good results. However, if the pairing is unsuitable, this can be time-consuming.
For this method, rabbits are housed separately, side by side, in visual contact.
Take care that they can’t reach one another and cause injury. Two medium-sized dog crates are ideal.
Both rabbits should have an area in which they can hide.
Intermittently swap the rabbits between cages to allow each rabbit to get used to the other’s scent, as this can make a huge difference to the speed of bonding.
You can also swap toys intermittently.
If your rabbit has free run of the house, swap access, so both rabbits take a turn in all areas.
Your rabbits’ dates will need to take place in an area that is neutral, such as a spare room or bedroom that has not had free access.
Dating
The two rabbits are placed together in completely neutral territory where neither has previously been.
This should be an area where rabbits can feel relaxed and safe. Avoid slippery floors, noisy or smelly environments. A large room is best, but a large run can be used.
Many experienced bonders advise that a smaller space speeds up the bonding process, allowing for more interactions.
A new space avoids the need for the rabbit to defend an established territory, whereas new territories often stimulate rabbits to seek reassurance from one another.
At this time, supervision is critical as rabbits can be unpredictable and aggressive. Wear gloves in case you need to stop any fighting.
Always provide enticing and varied foods, as eating together is an essential part of bonding. Some bonders don’t recommend food on the first few dates in case food guarding occurs.
It may be best to provide food in several small sites, so that rabbits can initially choose to eat separately.
Strong herbs such as parsley and dandelion leaves can stimulate even the most nervous rabbits to eat in the presence of another rabbit.
Ideally, the first date for your rabbits should be no longer than 15 minutes.
Don’t attempt a date if you are going to skimp on the supervision – better to miss a date than have a bad encounter.
If heads are lowered in a request for grooming but both rabbits are too stubborn to initiate, you can give them both a stroke to help initiate the behaviour.
Massaging around the rear end will stimulate them to start grooming themselves, and thus the intended partner.
Future dates should be continued in neutral territory and can become progressively longer. Initially, try twice daily, slowly building this up in time and frequency.
Never leave rabbits alone unsupervised until they are fully bonded.
| WARNING: Rapid tail chasing, tails raised, and ears back means an attack is coming. Immediately separate with a towel or thickly gloved hands. If allowed to escalate, this behaviour can affect any future pairing. Following this, avoid dating your rabbits for a further two weeks. Maintain swapping and visual contact in the meantime and try a new, larger space when you restart dating. |
Speed Dating Method
This method is quicker, but supervision and vigilance are needed to assess when problems are occurring and to part rabbits quickly if needed.
Using this method, rabbits have less time to adjust to the sight and smell of their proposed partner.
Rabbits are introduced without a prolonged period of visual contact.
The rest of the dating process is the same as described above. If the rabbits appear unstressed and are not showing aggression, the process can be repeated on numerous occasions for longer periods until bonding is achieved.
Rabbit bonding behaviour
Often rabbits completely ignore each other – this is encouraging, because some rabbits begin fighting immediately.
Mirroring is often seen; rabbits copy the behaviour/posture of the other; this is usually a very positive sign.
Males will often chase females like they do in the wild. Chasing can be by the male or female; this is not usually stressful and is part of establishing the social hierarchy. They will often run circles around one another in a round-up type of behaviour.
Incessant circling and tail chasing must be stopped immediately, as it can lead to conflict. Ears back and rapid tail twitching are a warning sign of pending aggression.
The dominant rabbit in the partnership undertakes mounting behaviour, which may be done by either sex. If the submissive bunny (one being mounted) is becoming agitated, you can break the mount with a loud clap.
Only part them if you think a fight is about to happen. After the bond is established, mounting behaviour will often continue by both rabbits and can also signal affection later in the relationship.
Nipping after a mount is normal behaviour, and occasionally, a tiny amount of fur is pulled off.
It can also happen if one of the rabbits is guarding a particular area or resource. This is fine if the other rabbit is ok with it.
If things are getting heated, a loud clap can sometimes be enough to diffuse the situation.
Grooming is a very positive sign that bonding is working. Mutual grooming is the single most important sign of a bonded pair.
Bunny flops (throwing themselves down on their sides, binkies and tail flicks are all positive signs (tail flicking is flirting, not to be confused with the aggressive signs).
Turning their bottoms directly to the other and thumping is a direct cry for attention.
Moving in together
Disinfect and clean the new accommodation completely and move rabbits into this during the day, not at night.
Don’t ever put one rabbit into the other’s housing area. Use temporary housing whilst getting one area ready if needed.
Ensure the space is large enough for rabbits to seek isolation from the other should they feel the need to do so.
Often, behaviours will change once rabbits are placed in a new enclosure, and you may witness some earlier, unwanted behaviours.
This is normal and will usually pass. If there are any signs of intense aggression, move the rabbits back into the bonding area. Once a bond is fully cemented, these issues should resolve.
We hope this has been helpful – good luck! If you need further support, please reach out to your local veterinary practice or rabbit rescue for further guidance.
With many thanks to Honor Etherington and Deborah Stafford for contributing to this content.
Useful resources:
- Rabbit Welfare Association and Fund – Paring up Rabbits (Bonding) – https://rabbitwelfare.co.uk/rabbit-care-advice/ownership/bonding-rabbits/
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